The Janus Jacket has two large patch pockets sewn into the inside of the garment, each divided with a stitch across the centre into a lower hand-warmer and an upper storage pocket. The lower pockets are reached through long splits in the side seams. The pocket corners are riveted from the inside, so the copper rivet backs show on the outside of the garment.
Unfinished Cotton Molleton is a versatile high quality cotton canvas (coat weight), woven as a panama. The yarn is ecru cotton.
This Tender jacket has been hand-dyed with iron rust dyed. Iron is a metal that oxidizes when it comes in contact with air and moisture. When this happens, the surface becomes, yellow, orange or brown due to the formation of iron oxides. Fabric placed in contact with this rusty surface quickly absorbs the colour, and develops a permanent print that is almost impossible to remove. This is the principle behind rust dyeing.
Rust dyeing is one of the very oldest forms of tinting fabric, and can be traced back to the Egyptian First Dynasty through brownish linen rags found at Tarkhan, dated to between 3482 and 3102 BCE. Vintage 19th Century workwear would often have iron hardware attached to it, and discoveries of old utilitarian cloths have frequently been left with iron tools or nails,so these items often have yellow or brown rust stains on them.
Sew-on buttons are custom stamped in England from solid copper sheet, using a pneumatic press. Copper strip is fed in by hand, and a two-part punch cuts, dishes, and pushes out sewing holes, dropping raw copper buttons into a hopper by the machinist's feet. The buttons are tumbled in marble chips to remove burrs and soften the sharp edges which could damage the sewn buttonholes, but they are otherwise untreated- as the copper oxidises and ages with use and contact with the wearer's fingers it will patinate and darken, making each piece unique.
Tender jackets are sewn by a husband and wife team of two, in their own small factory in the Midlands. One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Even lightweight shirts are produced on heavy machines designed for workwear and industrial purposes. By retooling and adjusting to allow for the fabric weight, garments come out with uniquely twisted or puckered seams. Longer stitch patterns give a feeling of practicality, but also avoid damaging the fabrics with unnecessary punctures and allow slight flexibility in the seams, helping the clothes to mould and form even better to the wearer’s body over time.
Tender is a small label created in Stroud, United Kingdom, by William Kroll and greatly inspired by classic British workwear and the garments used by the railway workers during the second industrial revolution.
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