We're excited to introduce one of the most incredible and rarest jeans we've ever had at Redcast. These rare jeans are produced in a super limited number (Limited to 131 pairs worldwide) as the cotton yarns are dyed by the hand of craftsmen, and it took 14 months to finally complete the fabric.
The yarns used for the warp are hand dyed with indigo (Awa Shoai Aizome), and the weft yarns are dyed with persimmon tannin (Kakishibu). The yarn used for hand dyeing is thicker than that for machine dyeing. Therefore the denim fabric has a unique uneven finish that is completely different from ordinary denim.
The technique used in the indigo and persimmon dyeing is called "fermentation", with Awa indigo and persimmons as raw materials. Since it cannot be dyed in a dark shade at once, the process of dyeing, squeezing, and drying is repeated many times. It is said that the genuine colour of the Awa Shoai dyeing technique (hank dyeing) is gained after washing with water about 30 times, each of which the unharmonious colour is washed off until a deep shade is created. Also, the unique scent with an insect-repellent effect contributes to the atmosphere with seasonal transitions, giving the wearer peace of mind. In 1968, the "Awa Shoai dyeing technique" was designated as an intangible cultural property of Tokushima and is still inherited today.
These jeans are expensive, but the Japanese method of creating awa shoai and kakishibu dye is truly labour and incredibly time-consuming. For the awa shoai, leaves are carefully gathered from the indigo plant and placed under thick straw mats for months. Workers must perform daily maintenance to ensure the leaves have proper airflow and stay at a temperature of around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The entire fermentation process takes roughly one full year, from picking the leaves to completion.
On the other hand, Kakishibu is also a traditional dyeing method with hundreds of years of tradition. The discolouration is caused by oxidation of the fermented juice of unripened persimmon fruit containing strong tannin. It also reacts to sunlight, so the colour changes slowly with time and sun exposure. Historically, Japanese people enjoyed the changing colours and texture of the natural reactions after one week, one month, and one year later. However, because of the fast-paced consumer society, Kakishibu traditions disappeared for many years.
These jeans are made with all the superior-quality ONI details such as copper buttons, high-quality pocket bags, heavy-duty bar tacks and a natural deer hide leather patch printed with the serial number of each pair. The cut is based on the iconic 288 regular straight cut. A straight cut with a good amount of space in thighs, knees and calves, thus achieving a very comfortable while classic fit with a medium rise.
The legend of ONI is alive to this day. In recent years Oishi-San has devoted himself to experimenting with widely varying grammages, rough textures, different indigo dyeing techniques and novelty cuts while always maintaining a very limited production and wielding his experience in denim which now goes back more than 60 years.
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