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TCB

TCB Two Cat's Waist Overall Logwood

€269,42

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This is one of the fantastic pieces of the new collaboration collection between TCB and Viktor Fredbäck called "Viktor's Voice". During a video call in the pandemic, Viktor showed TCB guys a couple of pairs of vintage jeans from a brand called "Olympic brand" that he found in an old mine. Olympic brand was the 3rd line of Levi's, and these two pairs are more than 100 years old. One of them is indigo, and the other one is Logwood dyed.

Hajime Inoue (the TCB owner) told Viktor that TCB would like to reproduce the very jeans. And Viktor said: "Yes, you can, but there is a condition for that. I always go into old mines at the risk of my life. So you gotta make them perfect in every sense."

TCB answered him: "You bet."

About Viktor Fredbäck

Viktor Fredbäck is a famous jeans hunter worldwide. It’s been more than half a century after the gold rush, but he still goes into old mines to find blue gold at the risk of his life. He is a pure denim freak who dares to walk into the darkness only with some light of a headlight, knowing that any troubles could happen anytime. So he goes through some trackless paths, pushing aside mountains of pebbles to find the heritage of the past.

His collections have lots of ultra-rare vintages, and some are even exhibited at museums as historical pieces. The Olympic Brand jeans he lent TCB is also the only pair found in the world as of 2021. TCB also had to go in full swing to respond to his love and passion for blue garments.

The Logwood Fabric

After TCB learned how to dye and reproduce this colour, they started this project last year. The first step is always to choose the suitable cotton. The cotton for this big project is EMOT cotton with some leaf specks of dust, so some neppy texture is expected. Looking closely at the irregularity of thread shape, it seems there's much less irregularity compared to the natural indigo denim so that TCB don't use the mainstream way to produce the irregularity, the computer regulation, but go with natural irregularity brought by the spinning & weaving techniques and the blend of the cotton. Yarn Count Warps: 7.3 Wefts: 6.7 making it 12.7oz fabric to be unveiled soon.

TCB found an official vintage catalogue that proves that the jeans of the Olympic Brand were dyed by logwood. Any natural dye is very prone to sun fading, and colour difference on each production run could have happened because that is the characteristic of any natural dye.
So TCB started to reproduce the same Logwood dyeing. Logwood, or bloodwood, is a tree that is native to the West Indies and South America. When the ground heartwood is soaked in water, it makes a blood-red liquid that can be used as an indicator solution, changing colour depending on what is added. Used as a dye, it can produce a range of colours from black and purple to a delicate fawn.

To reach the original colour of the vintage fabric, TCB first Poured the logwood dye into the pool. The cotton turned pink, but the colour changed into a more earthy brown-grey after adding steel as dormant.

At last, the colour turned into grey. Logwood dye is very prone to turning yellow. After many experiments on the colour change, TCB concluded that the green-brown tinge on the vintage piece resulted from a century and the accumulated dust over time.

The warps are hank dyed by logwood, and the wefts are ecru.

Weaving at Nihonmenpu Mill

As for logwood fabric, the warps are hank dyed by logwood, and the wefts are ecru. The rotation speed of the shuttle must be slow to get the vintage feel on the fabric. There are more than 50 vintage shuttle looms in the room, but the two machines weaving TCB denim was moving much more slowly than others. When it comes to hank dyed threads, they are much shorter than those dyed by rope dyeing. So, when they weave them, they need to connect each thread so that a knot occurs at every certain length. Therefore, workers need to constantly check the fabric to put those knots to the backside of the fabric. These knots are the proof that the fabric was actually hank dyed.

The shuttles from Nihonmenpu are a bit bigger than normal ones. Wefts are cast into the warps by the shuttles moving laterally, and the heddles that move the warps up and down need to move much more than usual. As a result, the texture of fabric gets soft like a hand-woven fabric and gets natural slubbiness.

The Details

  • The patch is made of linen. As you wear it, it gets rubbed off like vintage. TCB decided not to put their brand name on the patch this time because the vintage doesn't have the name.
  • If you look at the overlocking stitches, the shape and width of the overlocking are also made close to the vintage. It's so-called "narrow lock". (Only among Japanese vintage freaks).
  • The fly buttonholes are made in the same way as shirt buttonholes. Of course, the same was as the vintage is constructed.
  • Pockets sewing is done by a double needle machine. Doing the corner right is where you show your sewing skills. Comparing the sewing of the vintage pair with the TCB repro, we can say that Levi's workers were less skilled than TCB guys for sure.
  • The vintage pair had slight dents at the rivets. These dents were inevitable due to the way the rivets used to be attached back then. It's easy to make the rivets in this shape with a dent, but then this little dent placement will always be sitting in the same place, which is not real. So one more time, the Japanese perfectionism aimed TCB to reproduce this dent right. They ordered a mould just to make a dent. So, TCB attached rivets first and then did the hard press to have this dent. So, it sometimes sits at the centre, the left, or right. Very natural indeed, and that's what Inoue-san wanted.
  • The cinch on the vintage pair shows only the metal colour so TCB almost adopted a silver one, but after some discussion with Viktor, it was most likely that the cinch was also black lacquered, so it has been a custom-made one on TCB's repro.
  • The buttons are made of steel with a black lacquered finish as the vintage ones. They'll indeed look lovely when the paint gets rubbed off, and they get a bit rusty.

The Cut

The cut is some think that the jeans from 1910 must have been super wide and baggy, but it’s actually not really. A few years ago, TCB felt the same when we reproduced 501 from the 1920s, but they are not extremely wide either. When TCB reproduce jeans, they always take the same cut from the vintage.

  • 12.7oz unsanforized one-wash selvedge Japanese Denim
  • EMOT cotton (Eastern Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas)
  • Logwood hank dyed
  • Vintage Olympic brand repro
  • Regular straight
  • High rise
  • Warp: Grey / Weft: Ecru
  • Slubby and irregular texture
  • TCB Linen patch
  • Selvedge line colour: beige
  • Steel black lacquered buttons
  • Steel-made rivets
  • Cotton twill pocket bags
  • Made in Kojima, Japan by Japanese denim craftsmen

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