Tender Co. selvedge denim molleton is custom woven in Japan from unbleached cotton weft and 25-dips indigo cotton warp, giving it a very deep blue, almost black, appearance before wearing in to a rich marbled blue. The selvedge line is blue, and the fabric weighs 16oz. The fabric is cut loomstate, without sanforizing but the jeans are raised in England to a molleton finish, giving it a soft fluffy surface on both sides and getting all shrinkage away. The cut is a modern high tapered fit. The taper gives a slim-fitting silhouette while allowing space at the thighs with a high-rise.
The jeans are made with superior-quality details such as lost wax cast brass waistband button, snob’s thumb coin pocket, copper rivets or triple-stitched seams. The sew-on buttons are custom stamped in England from solid copper sheet, using a pneumatic press. Copper strip is fed in by hand, and a two-part punch cuts, dishes, and pushes out sewing holes, dropping raw copper buttons into a hopper by the machinist's feet. The buttons are tumbled in marble chips to remove burrs and soften the sharp edges which could damage the sewn buttonholes, but they are otherwise untreated- as the copper oxidises and ages with use and contact with the wearer's fingers it will patinate and darken, making each piece unique.
All of Tender’s clothes and accessories are made in the UK. This is partly a matter of convenience as factories, ateliers, and maker’s homes are all no more than a drive away from the studio, but also because there is a particular character and personality to different countries’ production: making and designing in parallel, in the same location, seem to lead to products with more integrity and coherence. Garments are sewn by a husband and wife team of two, in their own small factory in the Midlands. One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Even lightweight shirts are produced on heavy machines designed for workwear and industrial purposes. By retooling and adjusting to allow for the fabric weight, garments come out with uniquely twisted or puckered seams. Longer stitch patterns give a feeling of practicality, but also avoid damaging the fabrics with unnecessary punctures and allow slight flexibility in the seams, helping the clothes to mould and form even better to the wearer’s body over time.
Tender is a small label created in Stroud, United Kingdom, by William Kroll and greatly inspired by classic British workwear and the garments used by the railway workers during the second industrial revolution.
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