The Collared Shepherd’s Coat references traditional working jackets, with a simple oversize roomy cut and a large collar to keep out the wind. Large olive wood buttons are widely spaced and the deep riveted pockets are folded up around the hem, from the inside to the outside, so they can be accessed from either side.
Over a year in development, Tender 19oz extra heavy Cross Weave Denim is woven in England on an unbleached ringspun cotton warp usually used for industrial conveyor belts. Denim is usually woven with an indigo warp and an ecru weft, but cross weave denim reverses this- the weft is Japanese rope-dyed ringspun 25 dips indigo cotton yarn. To ensure a deep colour, extra picks (weft lines) are pushed in, resulting in a very firm, tightly-woven, cloth. Despite this, cross weave denim shows more ecru yarn and textural variation than a standard denim. The appearance of the fabric was inspired by a pair of vintage British Rail worker’s uniform trousers, cut from a lightweight denim with a very distinct twill line. With wear the deep indigo from the weft yarn will lift and transfer onto the ecru warp, resulting in fades in the indigo and reverse staining onto the raw cotton.
All of Tender’s clothes and accessories are made in the UK. This is partly a matter of convenience as factories, ateliers, and maker’s homes are all no more than a drive away from the studio, but also because there is a particular character and personality to different countries’ production: making and designing in parallel, in the same location, seem to lead to products with more integrity and coherence.
Tender coats are sewn by a husband and wife team of two, in their own small factory in the Midlands. One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Even lightweight shirts are produced on heavy machines designed for workwear and industrial purposes. By retooling and adjusting to allow for the fabric weight, garments come out with uniquely twisted or puckered seams. Longer stitch patterns give a feeling of practicality, but also avoid damaging the fabrics with unnecessary punctures and allow slight flexibility in the seams, helping the clothes to mould and form even better to the wearer’s body over time.
Tender is a small label created in Stroud, United Kingdom, by William Kroll and greatly inspired by classic British workwear and the garments used by the railway workers during the second industrial revolution.
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