A simply amazing winter garment. Exclusively made for Redcast Heritage Co. Only 7 pairs available in the world.
The fabric has been woven like a denim with a 100% cotton warp and 100% ryeland wool weft. The end result is a garment that is very wooly and rough on the outside (and very warm) but smooth like cotton on the inside. The cut is a modern high tapered fit. The taper gives a slim fitting silhouette while allowing space at the tighs with a high-rise.
Wool for woven and knitted garments in Tender Autumn/Winter 2018 was shorn from a small flock of 30 Ryeland sheep raised in the Scottish Borders. Their wool was offered exclusively to Tender and has never before been used for clothing.
The Ryeland breed is one of the longest-established in Britain, thought to have originally descended from Spanish Merinos. Mediaeval records show a flock of 300 Ryeland sheep at Dore Abbey in Herefordshire, where the wool was collected and processed for shipment overseas. Ryeland wool was particularly prized in Italy and Flanders, for spinning into the finest yarns which were used as the standard for other wools. In the 16th Century, Elizabeth I is said to have received a gift of Ryeland wool stockings, and thereafter insisted on wearing only clothes made from the yarn. The ‘Wool Sack’ on the Chancellor’s seat at the House of Lords was originally stuffed with raw Ryeland fleeces. Today, Ryeland wool is unusual as its varied colours and relatively slow growth make it unsuitable for commercial farming, however its texture, weight, and natural colours are second to none.
These Tender jeans have been dyed with indian black, derived from a naturally occuring iron oxide from India. Indian black is thought to be the original source of lamp black and India ink. It was later replaced with crushed charcoal as a more readily available alternative. Beautiful fades are guaranteed.
The jeans are made with no side seam, across the width of the fabric, with all the superior-quality Tender details such as lost wax cast brass waistband button, snob’s thumb coin pocket or copper rivets
All of Tender’s clothes and accessories are made in the UK. This is partly a matter of convenience as factories, ateliers, and maker’s homes are all no more than a drive away from the studio, but also because there is a particular character and personality to different countries’ production: making and designing in parallel, in the same location, seem to lead to products with more integrity and coherence. Garments are sewn by a husband and wife team of two, in their own small factory in the Midlands. One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Even lightweight shirts are produced on heavy machines designed for workwear and industrial purposes. By retooling and adjusting to allow for the fabric weight, garments come out with uniquely twisted or puckered seams. Longer stitch patterns give a feeling of practicality, but also avoid damaging the fabrics with unnecessary punctures and allow slight flexibility in the seams, helping the clothes to mould and form even better to the wearer’s body over time.
Tender is a small label created in Stroud, United Kingdom, by William Kroll and greatly inspired by classic British workwear and the garments used by the railway workers during the second industrial revolution.
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