5 Selvedge Denim Trends
In this past year we have been observing some new trends in selvedge denim which we wanted to share with you. We would like you to leave a comment after reading this post, sharing your opinion on this: whether or not you like these trends, whether you believe they are a passing fad or are here to stay, whether you would like to see more of them in our shop… every opinion will be welcome :)
So let’s start!
1. Ankle Length
The first of the really strong trends is to do with jeans with ankle-length fit. Brands such as Tanuki (with its Draft Tapered cut), ONI Denim, Japan Blue and Sugar Cane have launched some models with much shorter lengths than what we were used to. Some brands have called this new fit “ankle length” or “pedal pusher”, the concept being the same in both cases: to enhance the presence of the sneakers.
Image via Japan Blue Jeans
2. Stretch Denim
Another trend that is gradually emerging within raw denim -despite the reticence of many- is “stretch denim”. Contrary to what some may think, denim fabric being stretchy does not mean it isn’t raw or that it won’t wear away; it simply means that it contains a small percentage of polyurethane (approx. 1-3%) to provide an extra touch of comfort.
ONI 922S Deep Grey Overdye 15oz Stretch HT Jeans Image via @bradford_davis
Naked & Famous Stretch Selvedge Raw Denim Jeans Image via Heddels
Brands such as ONI Denim, Pure Blue Japan, Fullcount and Naked and Famous have launched their stretch models this past year, distancing themselves a little from the classics to draw closer to street wear and perhaps also thinking of those people who, due to the pandemic, are now working more from home or are spending more time rolling around the floor playing with their children and need an additional bit of comfort.
3. Stonewashed Jeans
Some Japanese brands such as Orslow or Burgus Plus have been including stonewashed pieces in their collections for years, but a few others, such as Studio D’Artisan with their vintage collection, or Fullcount, have recently joined this trend.
Furthermore, the American brand 3sixteen launched their own stonewashed version, and had received a lot of attention.
3sixteen CT-101xs Stonewashed Indigo Selvedge Classic Tapered Jeans
Image via @3sixteen
4. Overdyed Jeans
Although brands such as Iron Heart and Rogue Territory launched overdyed jeans some years ago now, this trend appears to have gotten a little stronger in this past year. Overdyed denim is dyed repeatedly to produce an overtone of colour in the fabric and fades beautifully over time.
During this year 2021 we have been seeing some interesting overdyed proposals by 3sixteen and ONI Denim (with their Stretch Overdye Jeans adding this trend to the stretch denim we mentioned earlier) and many others that are yet to arrive.
ONI 922S Deep Grey Overdye 15oz Stretch HT Jeans
5. Natural Dyes
Lastly, another prominent trend in Japanese denim are natural dyes from fruits such as Kakishibu (persimmon), plants such as Akane (madder), and even vegetables such as Kuromame (black beans).
There are many brands (Studio D’Artisan, Kapital, Tanuki, Pure Blue Japan and Samurai, among others) that have just produced or are preparing juicy novelties with this type of dye. Their goal: to give indigo a special and different touch of colour and to achieve a unique fade over time.
Available soon at Redcast - Image via Samurai
Kakishibu dyeing process
What’s more, these types of techniques enhance the value of the ancestral, chemical-free Japanese dying techniques while also protecting the environment.
Comments on this post (6)
For , yes, 100% cotton only, stretchy can get puffed out knees and get “ runs “ on them like girls used to get wearing nylons
Stonewashed , a big YES , like it or not , it is back in a big way with the looks they’re soft feeling, a red e awesome matched with a white tee , a grey tee , and black tee , and so much cooler to wear in states with nearly all year long moderate and hot temperatures , heavy dark raw is pretty miserable in these locations uncomfortable on many days with sweating , etc. in fact , it’s a personal goal to to take a few of my raws to soak , wash in washer , even add bleach little by little by little , wash after wash to carefully make the @ stone washed “ on my own especially if I already have some great thigh fades !
— Steve
Good info
— Lawrence Peter Poning
A mi salvo el lavado a la piedra el resto no me disgusta. Explicó el motivo de porque no me gusta y es que no me gastaría en unos vaqueros o chaqueta lavado a a la piedra lo que costaría estos de 3 sixteen o los de Oni cuando ya es un segmento que marcas como levis explotan a un precio muy inferior y que en mi opinión no notarás tanta diferencia.
— Joseba
In the 1970s, when I was a skinhead/suedehead, we used to wear shortened jeans to show our Doc Martens boots, or red socks. Now I like a drape. However I could change my look.
I’m a purist, so I’m not onboard with stretch denim. I prefer 100% cotton, not with 1 to 3 % plastic. I might entertain sugar cane fibers, or hemp, but not plastic.
Stone wash is a no no for me. 80s fashion best forgotten.
Overdue seems interesting, though I am really drawn to well constructed jeans made from great denim, with no gimmicks. For instance I like Eternal and Full Count basic denim, not super heavy but just great denim.
Natural dyes are wonderful. Truly a feature of Japanese craftsmanship and pride in their craft.
— Dave
Frankly I like all variety and creativity denim brands are putting forth. We can all call ourselves very lucky that we have all this great selection and still are able to obtain high quality products from our favorite brands. personally I’ve been really diggin’ the shorter inseam models and some of the great washes from brands like for example orSlow or SDA. Obviously nothing compares to a pair of RAW denim broken in by yourself. But why not enjoy the choice if it’s there. Also I really like the idea of using natural dyes for all kind of clothes.
— Tibor
Hello" I’m a new customer and I love the items showed. I’m looking to shop with you for a very long time….
— KEVIN PORTER