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5 Selvedge Denim Trends

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5 Selvedge Denim Trends

In this past year we have been observing some new trends in selvedge denim which we wanted to share with you. We would like you to leave a comment after reading this post, sharing your opinion on this: whether or not you like these trends, whether you believe they are a passing fad or are here to stay, whether you would like to see more of them in our shop… every opinion will be welcome :)

So let’s start!

1. Ankle Length

The first of the really strong trends is to do with jeans with ankle-length fit. Brands such as Tanuki (with its Draft Tapered cut), ONI Denim, Japan Blue and Sugar Cane have launched some models with much shorter lengths than what we were used to. Some brands have called this new fit ankle length” or pedal pusher”, the concept being the same in both cases: to enhance the presence of the sneakers.

Tanuki Yoroi Utility Pants
Image via @sodate_taro
 
Japan Blue jeans

Image via Japan Blue Jeans

Tanuki ZDT Zetto Draft Jeans
Click here to see more details
 
This length (“short” for many) is loved and hated in almost equal parts, but we certainly think that it’s a fantastic option for wearing with sneakers and for having a slightly different fit from the usual in your wardrobe.
 

2. Stretch Denim

Another trend that is gradually emerging within raw denim -despite the reticence of many- is stretch denim”. Contrary to what some may think, denim fabric being stretchy does not mean it isn’t raw or that it won’t wear away; it simply means that it contains a small percentage of polyurethane (approx. 1-3%) to provide an extra touch of comfort.

ONI 922S Deep Grey Overdye 15oz Stretch HT Jeans Image via @bradford_davis

Naked & Famous stretch denim jeans

Naked & Famous Stretch Selvedge Raw Denim Jeans Image via Heddels

 

 

Pure Blue Japan stretch jeans
PBJ 12oz Indigo Stretch Jeans
Image via Pure Blue Japan
 

Brands such as ONI Denim, Pure Blue Japan, Fullcount and Naked and Famous have launched their stretch models this past year, distancing themselves a little from the classics to draw closer to street wear and perhaps also thinking of those people who, due to the pandemic, are now working more from home or are spending more time rolling around the floor playing with their children and need an additional bit of comfort.

3. Stonewashed Jeans

The third trend is stonewashed jeans, yes, you heard right. Perhaps contrary to what a denimhead has in mind when buying a pair of jeans -to wear them down in daily use to give their jeans a unique appearance- this trend seems to be devised more for the lightweight fabrics we use during the summer months. In many countries the hot months are reduced to two (not the case with Spain), and so the project of fading a pair of jeans you will only wear for a couple of months a year can take forever. The perfect solution to this could be having a pair of selvedge stonewashed jeans with a more summery appearance, which in no case means that the denim is a poorer-quality fabric.
Studio D´Artisan IVY Used Wash indigo Jeans
 

Some Japanese brands such as Orslow or Burgus Plus have been including stonewashed pieces in their collections for years, but a few others, such as Studio D’Artisan with their vintage collection, or Fullcount, have recently joined this trend.

Orslow wash selvedge jeans
Orslow 105 "2 Year Wash" Selvedge Jeans
Image via @jeffdepano
 
Studio D´Artisan IVY Used Wash black Jeans
Studio D´Artisan IVY Used Wash Jeans
Image via SDA
 

Furthermore, the American brand 3sixteen launched their own stonewashed version, and had received a lot of attention.

3sixteen CT-101xs Stonewashed Indigo Selvedge Classic Tapered Jeans
Image via @3sixteen

4. Overdyed Jeans

Although brands such as Iron Heart and Rogue Territory launched overdyed jeans some years ago now, this trend appears to have gotten a little stronger in this past year. Overdyed denim is dyed repeatedly to produce an overtone of colour in the fabric and fades beautifully over time.

ONI overdye stretch denim
 

During this year 2021 we have been seeing some interesting overdyed proposals by 3sixteen and ONI Denim (with their Stretch Overdye Jeans adding this trend to the stretch denim we mentioned earlier) and many others that are yet to arrive.

ONI 922S Deep Grey Overdye 15oz Stretch HT Jeans

5. Natural Dyes

Lastly, another prominent trend in Japanese denim are natural dyes from fruits such as Kakishibu (persimmon), plants such as Akane (madder), and even vegetables such as Kuromame (black beans).

There are many brands (Studio D’Artisan, Kapital, Tanuki, Pure Blue Japan and Samurai, among others) that have just produced or are preparing juicy novelties with this type of dye. Their goal: to give indigo a special and different touch of colour and to achieve a unique fade over time.

Samurai kakishibu dyed jeans
Samurai Jeans Kakishibu-Dyed Jeans

Available soon at Redcast - Image via Samurai 

Kakishibu dyeing process

Kakishibu dyeing process

Tanuki Black beans-Dyed Jeans
Click here to see more details
 
Studio D´Artisan Akane-Dyed Jeans
Click here to see more details
 

What’s more, these types of techniques enhance the value of the ancestral, chemical-free Japanese dying techniques while also protecting the environment.

Comments on this post (4)

  • May 29, 2021

    A mi salvo el lavado a la piedra el resto no me disgusta. Explicó el motivo de porque no me gusta y es que no me gastaría en unos vaqueros o chaqueta lavado a a la piedra lo que costaría estos de 3 sixteen o los de Oni cuando ya es un segmento que marcas como levis explotan a un precio muy inferior y que en mi opinión no notarás tanta diferencia.

    — Joseba

  • May 18, 2021

    In the 1970s, when I was a skinhead/suedehead, we used to wear shortened jeans to show our Doc Martens boots, or red socks. Now I like a drape. However I could change my look.
    I’m a purist, so I’m not onboard with stretch denim. I prefer 100% cotton, not with 1 to 3 % plastic. I might entertain sugar cane fibers, or hemp, but not plastic.
    Stone wash is a no no for me. 80s fashion best forgotten.
    Overdue seems interesting, though I am really drawn to well constructed jeans made from great denim, with no gimmicks. For instance I like Eternal and Full Count basic denim, not super heavy but just great denim.
    Natural dyes are wonderful. Truly a feature of Japanese craftsmanship and pride in their craft.

    — Dave

  • May 18, 2021

    Frankly I like all variety and creativity denim brands are putting forth. We can all call ourselves very lucky that we have all this great selection and still are able to obtain high quality products from our favorite brands. personally I’ve been really diggin’ the shorter inseam models and some of the great washes from brands like for example orSlow or SDA. Obviously nothing compares to a pair of RAW denim broken in by yourself. But why not enjoy the choice if it’s there. Also I really like the idea of using natural dyes for all kind of clothes.

    — Tibor

  • May 18, 2021

    Hello" I’m a new customer and I love the items showed. I’m looking to shop with you for a very long time….

    — KEVIN PORTER

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