TCB S40's Denim Jacket
The WW2 reproduction by TCB, overseen by founder Hajime Inoue, meticulously mirrors the vintage piece, using a 14 oz EMOT blended cotton fabric for authenticity. Impeccable construction, hard twisted yarns, and unfinished steel buttons .
SIZE | 38 (38) | 40 (M) | 42 (L) | 44 (XL) | 46 (XXL) | 48 (XXXL) | 50 (XXXXL) |
Chest | 98 | 102 | 105 | 109 | 112 | 117 | 121 |
Shoulders | 42.5 | 44 | 45 | 47 | 49 | 50.5 | 53.5 |
Waist | 49 | 50.5 | 52 | 53 | 55.5 | 58 | 60 |
Opening | 45 | 47 | 49 | 51 | 52 | 56 | 58 |
Lenght | 64 | 65.5 | 66 | 66 | 66 | 67 | 69 |
Sleeve | 63 | 63.5 | 64 | 64.5 | 65 | 65 | 66 |
The WW2 reproduction is a project that TCB has eagerly anticipated, and founder Hajime Inoue has dedicated significant time to ensure every detail closely mirrors the vintage piece, resulting in this outstanding garment.
Upon meticulous examination and analysis of the original Levi's WW2 fabric, TCB selected a 14 oz fabric made of EMOT blended cotton (Eastern Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas). The hard twisted yarns with abundant neppiness contribute to a robust texture, reminiscent of Hajime Inoue's initial encounter with the original WW2 material. This hard twisted yarn is crucial in maintaining the indigo color, not fully penetrating the yarns' core, authentically capturing the vintage look and eventual fading.
The unevenness in the threads is faithfully reproduced through vintage Toyoda shuttle looms and the cotton blend recipe. Departing from the modern preference for whiteness in cotton, TCB focused on replicating the creamy tinge, an iconic detail of WW2 fabric.
Uncommon for Japanese hardware makers, the jacket features unfinished steel-made buttons, reflecting authenticity as they rust over time. The laurel wreath buttons, avoiding the use of copper and nickel as per WW2 workwear regulations, serve as an iconic feature.
Compared to the TCB 50's jacket, the cut of the WW2 jacket is modified to be more faithful to the original, featuring slightly more relaxed armholes and a shorter dress length. The construction is impeccable, with every minute detail faithfully reproduced, including the sketchy stitch work on the cinch.
Despite being a Japanese reproduction, we find the sizing of this jacket to be more Western than Japanese. If you usually wear a size M in American jackets, you'll find a suitable fit with this jacket in size 40 (M). Anyway, as always, we recommend consulting our size chart for the perfect fit. This jacket is semi-sanforized but have been pre-washed, so there will be no further shrinkage.
TCB (which stands for Two Cats Brand or Taking Care of Business) is a Japanese label founded in Kojima by Hajime Inoue in 2012. It specializes in reproductions of the classic American denim icons produced from the 1920s to the 1960s. Among his garments, we can find some of the highest-quality reproductions we have ever seen, made in his own workshop on sewing machines more than a hundred years.
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Reviews
SIZE | 38 (38) | 40 (M) | 42 (L) | 44 (XL) | 46 (XXL) | 48 (XXXL) | 50 (XXXXL) |
Chest | 98 | 102 | 105 | 109 | 112 | 117 | 121 |
Shoulders | 42.5 | 44 | 45 | 47 | 49 | 50.5 | 53.5 |
Waist | 49 | 50.5 | 52 | 53 | 55.5 | 58 | 60 |
Opening | 45 | 47 | 49 | 51 | 52 | 56 | 58 |
Lenght | 64 | 65.5 | 66 | 66 | 66 | 67 | 69 |
Sleeve | 63 | 63.5 | 64 | 64.5 | 65 | 65 | 66 |