Before the rivet, there was the needle. In the late nineteenth century, work jeans held together at the stress points because they were sewn there again and again — several lines of stitching where a rivet would later go — and that is how the 900HM is built. The “HM” stands for hand made: the reinforcement runs in multiple stitching lines at the pocket corners and seams, so the pair does not just look old, it is constructed the old way, and feels it.

The fabric is ONI’s 60XX, and it has its own history. Fifty years ago, Oishi-san took his first job at Levi’s Japan; within a couple of years he was the top salesman in the country, and the reward was a trip to San Francisco and the largest jeans store of the day — at a time when every yard of shrink-to-fit denim Levi’s used came from one place, Cone Mills’ White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina, open since 1905 and for a century the source of American-made denim. The 60XX is ONI’s look back at that cloth: a 12oz reproduction of 1960s denim with the slightly lighter indigo of a White Oak selvedge, woven at low tension with the slubby, neppy and hairy surface ONI puts into everything. The records burned, so nobody knows how many fabrics Cone made then; this is one interpretation, and the “XX” means what it meant on the originals — extra durable.

At 12oz the denim wears comfortably through the year without giving up texture, and because this version is not an ultra-low-tension weave, it keeps a little more structure and breaks in with a useful amount of stretch. Unsanforized and one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected.

The 900 is a twin of ONI’s 200: a wide straight with a high rise that sits between the regular straight 288 and the super wide 222 — plenty of room to move, cooler in warm weather, and an easy introduction to wider jeans for anyone coming from a straight leg.

The rest of the details are the house standard: ONI’s custom copper doughnut buttons, heavy-duty bar tacks, raised belt loops, a peek-a-boo selvedge coin pocket, cotton-lined front pockets and a vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch, with the white selvedge ID at the outseam. Produced in very limited quantities. 100% cotton. Made in Japan.

Fit Notes: This model fits true to size for ONI: the tagged size closely matches the actual waist measurement. Compared to most global American brands, sizing is similar or slightly smaller, so you may take the same size or one size up. The denim is unsanforized but has been one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected. As the 60XX is not an ultra-low-tension fabric, expect the waistband to stretch up to 1" with wear — a little more than ONI’s other denims — allowing the fit to settle over time. We don’t recommend sizing down, as starting too tight may cause discomfort and alter the intended fit of the garment. As always, we strongly recommend checking our size chart to find your perfect size.

Visit our LOOKBOOK and discover a great selection of heritage street-style outfits

‎• 12oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim — one-washed, no further shrinkage expected
‎• 100% cotton
‎• 60XX fabric: a reproduction of 1960s Cone Mills White Oak denim, with a slightly lighter indigo
‎• Slubby, neppy and hairy texture; low-tension woven
‎• Warp: indigo / Weft: white
‎• “Handmade” construction: stress points reinforced with multiple stitching lines, as on pre-rivet work jeans
‎• 900 wide straight fit — high rise, twin of the 200, between the 288 and the 222
‎• ONI custom copper doughnut buttons
‎• Heavy-duty bar tacks
‎• Peek-a-boo selvedge coin pocket
‎• Durable cotton-lined front pockets
‎• Raised belt loops
‎• Custom vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch
‎• White selvedge ID
‎• Super limited quantities
‎• Made in Japan

Spain

FREE SHIPPING on orders over 100 EUR .

6 EUR shipping cost on orders under the value mentioned above.

European Union & The UK

FREE SHIPPING on orders over 150 EUR \\.

14 EUR shipping cost on orders under the value mentioned above.

Rest of the World

FREE SHIPPING on orders over 250 EUR .

25 EUR shipping cost on orders under the value mentioned above.

If for some reason you are not happy with your purchase you can return it to us within 14 days for a size exchange or refund.

For more info please visit our returns & exchange page.

Please note that items in the SALE category are considered FINAL SALE, with no returns or exchanges accepted.